So today it's repair-day, no?
Just replaced the broken washing machine today. Bitch was heavy, made for 20 lbs dry load.
Dampers worn out, heating shorted, beyond repair. Glad that it was insured. The new one cost me only around 150 bucks (700 in the store), considering 250 for the old one from insurance and 5 years of warranty, saves me 5 bucks per month (totals 300).
As soon as i kicked out the thing at the waste dump, i returned home to hear the dryer squeak on every turn of the drum.
So it's bushing maintenance or belt replacement day tomorrow

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What's that nice green dildo we witness? Candles like this were anticipated, but months earlier.
Either revisiting Bart or finally the start of a parabolic phase?
Cycles over or lengthened?
Too many questions. Who has answers?
Repaired mine about 8 years ago (actually twice now that I think of it).
So it cost me 1200 like Idunno 14 or 15 years ago, at the time the front loaders were just becoming mainstream so I grabbed a whirlpool because Quality, Right?
I think the Warranty was 5 years and about 6 months after the warranty it started making noise so I checked and yup, just out of warranty.
So I said well lets take a look at this thing before getting a new one and I found the seal had failed causing water to follow the shaft into a unsealed bearing.
REALLY, UNsealed !!!!! AND the Seal was a piece of crap that had hardened without even a spring and the cost of the seal replacement was $80 and the Bearing $40.
So I was like, number one this seal is designed to age and fail because of the material they used, straight up Built in obsolescence.
Next the bearing is designed to fail right after the seal starts to leak as its not sealed.
So I took the measurements and found there were of course no seals with the same dimensions as they obviously made the special order to fuck people.
But the inner and out dimensions were obtainable and guess what, they were Exactly half the diameter than the original AND I could get them with springs!!
I found a sealed bearing from NACHI or NSK, can't really remember and the cost for the bearing and 2 high quality seals with springs was a Whopping 30 Bucks.
The drive line has been running perfect ever since and has already outlasted a new exact same model.
Then about 2 years ago the control board dies and that was $250, anyone seeing a pattern here?
I looked at the design and the plastic holder for the circuit board had ZERO ventilation holes and therefor created a hotbox that caused the triacs to fail.
I replaced the shitty 30amp triacs with 40 amps ones for like 5 bucks and added ventilation holes and expect the thing to outlast my old ass now.