you use 1 brick at TIME . that hub is a 20 stick hub. THE OEM 90 watt brick is 20 volts and 4.5 amps. the hub converts the 20 volts to 5 volts.
most dc to dc converters are 80%. so the 90 watt oem brick only has 90 x .8 = 72 real watts the 20 sticks pull about 2.5 -3 watts constantly or 60 watts . to run gear 247/365 80% of max is a safe number... so 80% of the 72 real watts is 57.6 watts. This means that the oem brick can safely deliver 57.6 watts under 'perfect' conditions. since your 20 sticks may pull up to 60 watts the oem brick is short just a little.. but the brick I pointed out is 135 watts with the jack an exact match.
So 135 x 80% = 108 real watts at 5 volts then 80% of that is 86.4 watts which is over and above the 60 watts needed.
So the tock brick is just a paper weiht then, I thought you meant you used both bricks lol.
I'm still lost in the math on the replacement brick, I thouht you always went by the amperage and since 1 amp is 1000ma 2 ASIC's since each one pulls approx 500ma then the total advertised amps of the replacement brick would do 13 ASIC sicks.
Lenovo 45N0058 135W 20V 6.75A
Even then, the amperage on the stock is 4.5 which would be 7 sticks at 500ma each. I know I'm probably missing something here but I've always seen people discuss the amperae as what matters.
I just dont wana spend money on something to litterally have it blow up on me. I've already invested just under $200 and I don't even have my hub yet, as far as asics go. I could only afford 4 to start off.
