Please upload your thermals, I'm interested to see them.

Got mine yesterday.  One work fine at 449G per pool stat., but the other one is not working  . 

Half of the ASIC was xxxxx.  I tried to change psu, cable, shutdown the one working and switch to this one (in case my new RM1000 is not working or not have capacity), reset it, change ethernet cable.  I even change the place 20 km apart!  Nothing work. 

I did show it got all 3 workers alive and the first one even get work (but discard them all).  Pool stat. said it was touched in 11 hours ago but not lately.  I double check the tailoring is the same (DHCP etc.) and hence it might not be mine.

(I did open the case see whether there is any thermal paste.  Nothing.  Hence not for that reason.)

Have to get back to Bitman for maintenance.  A bit disappointed.  6 S1 since April is all fine and hence may have too high expectation on its working.

There are no stickers on the screws to break (you know the ones that are placed there essentially to prove that you undid the screw)

And there are no electrical connections to the case to sense that you opened it.

I cant imagine that it could be proved you opened the case, supposing that youre not allowed to.

That said, i know from past experience that when there are problems bitmain support will direct you to re-seat electrical connections. Cant imagine that it would void anything, its just the case.

Im confident the case is there to look cool and improve airflow

go nuts

Here is a my take on the DC-DC regulator issue:

This part can cool off in 3 ways: conduction, convection and radiation. A back-of-the-envelope calculation shows that you can drop radiative cooling.

I think the new S3 design has a (slight?) flaw in the cooling of the DC-DC regulator part. With the cover on, the cooling of this part depends on airflow.

The problem is that the closer to the exhaust, the warmer the air is flowing over the regulator. So from back to front the regulator chips are running hotter. You could could use heat sinks to try to bandaid the problem but you probably could only place them on the last few chips because you don't want to block the air flow. So the issue is are the back chips running too hot?

I think the ultimate solution is removing the top cover, but what does that do to everything else and the warranty?

Can you post a photo of the chips in question. Removing the case would not be a good idea unless you had airflow directly hitting the chips. The tunnel helps move the heat across the chips.

Hi All,

Bought 2 S3.  Arrived today.

1.  First one, turns on, immediately non-stop ringing.  Never turns off. 
2.  Second one, turns on, no ringing, but the temperature of the first blade says 2C while the second is 44c.

They are both being tested with the SAME Corsair 1000W PSU.  The ringing is the worst part, but the temperature thing also concerns me.

Anyone know about this?  I am not talking about the intermittent beep that happens, it happens on the second unit, but the first unit is constant ringing, non-stop.

Thoughts?

real1st

Quick Question.

Any one else having their S3 report only one working blade.

I've tried
-different power supply
-multiple reboots
-different pci-e plugs
-Currently power all 4 pci-e plugs with a 1600 watt supply

I've filed a ticket with Bitmain but nothing yet.

Anyone have any suggestions short of opening the box and checking connections.

http://i819.photobucket.com/albums/zz114/oneilljf/s3_bad_blade_zps6ef30a19.jpg

Re firmware flashing: it gives the checksum before flashing, but what I supposed to compare it to?
also, "image size 7.5mb (8.1 mb available)"-what is this supposed to mean?

thanks, but why size discrepancy-when I download, it shows as a 8.1 mb file, but once I upload to s3 , then it says that it is 7.5mb.
besides, i don't see the checksum posted anywhere on their site.